Right OK Pew maybe I am mixing up the way USB key sticks work - which are FAT32 until you choose otherwise - with SSDs but I thought only FAT32 let you treat a SSD like a mechanical drive with freedom to format and reclaim overwritten space on the drive to make it ready to write new data (but still able to undelete at will).
Clearly not then so if you're saying I can format a SSD or use it preformatted in NTFS, put Windows on it and blank it just like a mechanical and all the formatted space becomes available again as if it were a mechanical, then problem solved and I can just choose one and get on with better speed.
New PC Upgrade 2020 into 2021
Re: New PC Upgrade 2020 into 2021
As far as I can tell, FAT32 is just an older standard that is more compatible with Mac OS and some Linux distributions. Because of its age, it has problems like only allowing files to be a maximum of 4 GB, and is apparently a bit slower. NTFS is a more modern file system that doesn't have the same issues, but is a bit less compatible with some versions of Mac OS etc. USB sticks are usually FAT32 by default because this just makes them compatible with everything, so you can go between these different systems.
If you're just formatting drives for using in a Windows PC, there's no reason to use anything but NTFS as far as I'm aware.
If you're just formatting drives for using in a Windows PC, there's no reason to use anything but NTFS as far as I'm aware.
Re: New PC Upgrade 2020 into 2021
FAT32 is a filesystem. You can use any filesystem on any drive, but some are better suited to some tasks than others.
These days, nobody should be using FAT32 for anything except compatible-with-everything USB sticks, and even then exFAT is probably a better choice.
Use the most modern filesystem you can. If it's a drive that's only ever going to be used in a Windows machine, use NTFS.
These days, nobody should be using FAT32 for anything except compatible-with-everything USB sticks, and even then exFAT is probably a better choice.
Use the most modern filesystem you can. If it's a drive that's only ever going to be used in a Windows machine, use NTFS.
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2Channelwonder
- Posts: 71
- Joined: Sun Aug 04, 2019 2:17 pm
Re: New PC Upgrade 2020 into 2021
OK then looks like I will keep it NTFS but below 1TB if I only ever plan to have Windows on the thing plus any apps that refuse to install anywhere other than C-drive, which according to Steam doesn't appear to be a problem at least not with Crysis anyway and whether I go above a SATA SSD depends on whether there's more than one mount in the cases I've looked at.
https://techplanet.today/post/amd-ryzen ... -upgrading
Thankfully these days almost anyone will have done the benchmarking within six months to try and get answers to basic questions like 2D power draw, 163W at the wall averaged between the two processors well it wasn't only in Windows 10 which is what I wanted, the writer of the article was using a Blender benchmark instead of just idling on the desktop pre-power saving. That's when the CPUs were on a 850W PSU and other assorted beefy specs, stepping down to only 750W I'd hope for closer to under 100 at the wall from 65W TDP Processors but it means my APU on 40W in Windows is far from being a dead machine, for everything other than gaming if I didn't need speed I can still use this old PC not to mention backup of course, to keep the electric bills down. I would have to do the maths at the time and as discussed before, weigh up that newer CPU vs more RAM but at least the spec is taking shape nicely and Partpicker's there for any adjustments.
https://techplanet.today/post/amd-ryzen ... -upgrading
Thankfully these days almost anyone will have done the benchmarking within six months to try and get answers to basic questions like 2D power draw, 163W at the wall averaged between the two processors well it wasn't only in Windows 10 which is what I wanted, the writer of the article was using a Blender benchmark instead of just idling on the desktop pre-power saving. That's when the CPUs were on a 850W PSU and other assorted beefy specs, stepping down to only 750W I'd hope for closer to under 100 at the wall from 65W TDP Processors but it means my APU on 40W in Windows is far from being a dead machine, for everything other than gaming if I didn't need speed I can still use this old PC not to mention backup of course, to keep the electric bills down. I would have to do the maths at the time and as discussed before, weigh up that newer CPU vs more RAM but at least the spec is taking shape nicely and Partpicker's there for any adjustments.
Re: New PC Upgrade 2020 into 2021
There are zero issues with installing Steam games on other drives. In Steam you can just make a new library on each drive very easily. I have 4!
Bear in mind that those power numbers are for the entire system, not just the processor. Sure, the processor is being pushed with Blender, but the rest still adds up. On idle it will be muuuuuuuch lower.
Bear in mind that those power numbers are for the entire system, not just the processor. Sure, the processor is being pushed with Blender, but the rest still adds up. On idle it will be muuuuuuuch lower.
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2Channelwonder
- Posts: 71
- Joined: Sun Aug 04, 2019 2:17 pm
Re: New PC Upgrade 2020 into 2021
Thankfully both Scan and Overclockers will honour the German 6 year warranty on the Arctic Cooler that was the only issue, all the rest of the build I am getting the best prices from other places after price comparisons with Amazon but am not bothered about delivery charges for honoured warranties.
I'll choose Overclockers for my last ever DVD Burner as the Asus sold by everyone has Marmite word of mouth, must be a packaging problem if so many of them seem to arrive damaged or maybe the 24 speed rating just can't be acheived without shortening the life of the drive. Will take my chances with whatever OC defines as OEM but it will be much more of a CD player than for anything involving backup. So now that is it I can restart with the cooler now I know what I'll be getting and bar any faulty hardware there won't be any returns and I have all the time over summer tidying a workspace to put it all together.
I'll choose Overclockers for my last ever DVD Burner as the Asus sold by everyone has Marmite word of mouth, must be a packaging problem if so many of them seem to arrive damaged or maybe the 24 speed rating just can't be acheived without shortening the life of the drive. Will take my chances with whatever OC defines as OEM but it will be much more of a CD player than for anything involving backup. So now that is it I can restart with the cooler now I know what I'll be getting and bar any faulty hardware there won't be any returns and I have all the time over summer tidying a workspace to put it all together.